Here are the basic methods and tips for cutting wood with a hand saw, from marking your line to making straight cuts, notches, and angled cuts.
Preparing to Cut
☑ Marking Out
Draw your marking lines on the sides of the board as well as the top, so you can check that the saw is staying straight along the line. Marking the waste side with an X or similar symbol helps you avoid cutting the wrong part.
Marking with a Kiridashi Knife or Marking Knife scores a fine groove that guides your saw, making it easier to follow the line.
☑ Securing the Wood
Holding the wood with your hand while you saw makes it unstable. Securing it with a clamp or similar tool lets you focus on the cut.
Cutting Wood with a Saw
Whether you're cutting wood to length or trimming a piece to size, sawing is part of the job.
Basic Cutting Technique
Cutting Position
Allow for the kerf (the width of the cut the saw removes) by cutting on the waste side of your line.
Step 1: Starting the Cut
At the start of a cut, there's nothing on the wood's surface for the blade to catch on. Lightly press the heel of the blade (the end nearest the handle) against the wood to make a starting groove.
Step 2: Continuing the Cut
Lay the saw over at an angle and set it in the groove. Because the saw cuts on the pull stroke, ease off on the push and apply pressure as you pull. Line up your eyes so the blade and the marking line form one straight line, and keep checking the marking lines on the top and side to make sure the blade isn't drifting left or right as you cut.
Saw angle
- Crosscut: 30°–35°
- Rip cut: 10°–15°
Step 3: Finishing the Cut
Ease off the pressure near the end of the cut and support the waste side with your hand. Raise the saw to a more upright angle and finish slowly.
Things to Watch While You Cut
- Keep your eyes on the blade and the line.
- Don't force the saw.
- Use the full length of the blade.
- Watch for splintering at the end of each stroke.
Learn more about how to use a Japanese saw
Learn more about crosscuts and rip cuts
Making a Partial Cut
When you're cutting a notch or chiseling out a groove, you'll often need to saw part of the way into the wood.
Tips and Steps for Partial Cuts
Tip
The key to staying on your marking line is to saw in from both faces of the wood.
How to Make the Cut
Start with the saw at an angle and cut in until you're just short of the marking line.
Flip the wood over and make the same cut from the other side.
Finally, stand the saw upright and cut the remaining section, taking care not to go past the marking line.
Cutting at an Angle
Making a 45-degree miter joint or a dovetail joint means cutting the workpiece at a set angle.
Tips for Cutting at an Angle
Tip
If you angle the saw to match the cut, your eyes and the blade no longer line up, and you can drift off the marking line. To keep them aligned, secure the wood so the angled marking line points straight ahead, which lets you hold the saw straight. That is the key to cutting at an angle.
Using a Jig
When you need an exact angle such as 45 degrees, it's hard to judge by eye alone. A jig acts as a guide for the saw blade.
Wrapping Up
When you cut wood with a saw, it's important to prepare before you start and keep checking your marking line as you go. Whether you're making a basic cut, a partial cut, or an angled cut, keep the tips for each in mind as you work.
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Frequently Asked Questions About Cutting Wood
Here are answers to common questions and problems people run into when cutting wood with a saw.
Why Does My Piece Come Out the Wrong Size When I Cut Along the Marking Line?
One common cause is not accounting for the kerf. A saw removes material equal to the thickness of the blade plus the set (the slight outward bend of the teeth), so the piece comes out shorter by the width of the kerf. Cut on the waste side of the line to make up for it.
Instead of aiming for the exact dimension with the saw alone, leave a little extra and fine-tune it afterward. Working in stages makes mistakes less likely.
Why Does the Blade Slip When I Start a Cut?
At the start of a cut, there's nothing on the wood's surface for the blade to catch on, so it slips easily. Use the heel of the blade to make a first groove. The groove then guides the blade, making it easier to keep cutting steadily.
Why Does My Saw Get Stuck Partway Through a Cut?
The main cause is that the blade no longer fits the width of the kerf. This is most likely to happen when the saw starts going in crooked. If you try to force it back to straight, the saw plate bends even more, binds, and stops moving. The cut will end up slanted, but don't try to force the saw back into line. Keep it at the same angle and keep cutting, and the saw plate is less likely to warp.
How Do I Cut Straight with a Saw?
Common reasons for crooked cuts include letting your eyes drift off the marking line, wood that shifts while you saw, and losing focus on the cut. Secure the wood firmly in a stable spot, and set up your workspace so you can concentrate. Keep your eyes lined up so the blade and the marking line form one straight line, and check the marking lines on the top and side to make sure the saw plate isn't wobbling left or right.
Using a Guide Block
Rest the saw plate against a guide block as you cut. This holds your angle and keeps the saw from wandering.
How Do I Cut Thick or Hard Wood?
Choose a saw that suits the job. Thick wood needs a long stroke, so pick a longer saw, such as one with a 300 mm blade. For hard wood, choose a saw made for hardwoods. If you're not sure which saw to choose, read our guide to choosing a Japanese saw by type.